How to Care for Your CJA Edged Art, and Scorpion Forge Cutlery

First, I’d like to thank you for purchasing cutlery from CJA Edged Art / Scorpion Forge!! With proper care your knife will last your family many generations. I hope you enjoy using it as much as I have enjoyed making it for you!!

~~~

Both my carbon and stainless knives receive precisely the same care in my home. The rust resistance of stainless is a convenience, but not something that I rely on. Good habits are kept by…well, keeping good habits!! In use there is no difference at all.

Use:

  • Do NOT attempt to cut through bone!!
  • Feel free to use as a portioning/serving/butcher knife. If you cut against bone (or directly into it) use long straight motions. ONLY!! Do NOT TORQUE!! The edge is exceedingly thin. While it is quite tough and fairly flexible for what it is, it can chip with improper use
  • If you couldn’t safely bite into it, it probably shouldn’t contact the edge of your knife.
  • DO use care in chopping. A push or pull motion while lightly pressing down will provide the most efficient, effective, and effortless cut.
  • Do NOT use as a screwdriver, can opener, hammer, chisel, scraper, etc. Do NOT use as a tool other than a culinary knife.
  • Do NOT cut on hard surfaces such as counters, Corian, stainless steel, ceramic, or glass. DO cut on end grain, rubber, or soft plastic cutting boards. Edge grain cutting boards are acceptable, but not preferred. This will avoid damage and prolong edge life.

Care:

  • Do NOT put your knife into the dishwasher, or leave in a sink of water!!
  • DO maintain the handle at least monthly with a quality board butter, or at minimum mineral oil. I recommend our own multi-purpose Knife Butter!
  • Do NOT leave your knife loose in a drawer.
  • I recommend your knife not be ‘washed’. I keep a damp towel next to or on my board, and keep the knife wiped down as I’m using it. A quick wipe with any oil rag (camelia or food grade mineral oil is best), or a rub down with my Knife Butter is all that’s necessary before replacing it on your rack. Please oil the handle as well. Wood, even if stabilized, is a natural material and may dry out and crack.
  • The leather saya (if included) is provided to protect the edge, and your flesh during transport. It is NOT a storage solution. Your knife can and likely will rust if left in the saya for extended periods.
  • DO use a magnetic rack, or other open storage option. Enclosed options can promote rust, or damage the edge.
  • Your knife (if carbon steel) is delivered with a base level forced patina. This is for the purpose of protection against rust, and to display any hamon/hardening line to greatest effect. This patina will darken and deepend unevenly with use, often darkening and bringing out any hardenling line to even greater clarity. This is a feature! Not a flaw!! Well cared for patination tells the story of every meal prepared with your knife.
  • A sharp knife is safer, and actually improves the flavor of your food. That said, I do NOT recommend regular ‘sharpening’ of your knife. This is unnecessary and actually decreases the overall lifespan of the blade. Instead, I suggest a 4000 to 8000 grit ceramic rod, or a similar grit water stone kept next to your sink (some prefer leather, nylon, or balsa wood strops. These are acceptable as well). A few light stropping passes before or after use will ensure your knife keeps an edge that will easily take on tough old peppers, while maintaining the existing edge steel for the longest period of time. If your knife ever does need fully sharpened, I’ll gladly do it for postage.

In closing, I would like to again express my gratitude to you for choosing my knives to assist you in your culinary journey. I hope it comes to be the knife you reach for before all others.

Thank you!! ~ Cris Anderson

Home Get in touch